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Post by dungbug on Feb 13, 2012 22:42:34 GMT
The bottom of the bowl was left to show what the inside looked like before cleaning, got into it before taking any photo's so thought I'd get a photo of the bowl before scrubbing it. I've sprayed a generous amount of carb cleaner down there & blown some compressed air through as well, can't see what else could be done with it. Just the bowl to do, fix the choke lever and re-assemble. Need to find the Haynes to get the factory settings.......Cleaned the shed up & haven't seen it since, hence why I try not to tidy the shed up. ;D
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Post by TerraRoot on Feb 13, 2012 23:29:49 GMT
i share the garage with my dad and my younger brother, they are like obsessive about cleaning up, i've given up on ever finding stuff
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Post by dungbug on Feb 14, 2012 8:40:42 GMT
Haha. ;D I can't even think where it would be, tried all the obvious places.
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Post by dungbug on Feb 19, 2012 21:17:59 GMT
Well gave the float bowl a dam good clean up, blew another lot of compressed air through everywhere and was happy that everywhere was cleaning and would flow without a blockage. Started re-assembling the carb (using the Haynes manual I found this morning) and I noticed on the exploded diagram there's meant to be a small spring, washer and O ring on the mixture screw. This 'new' carb had the washer & O ring but no screw ARRRRR*E!!!!! Due to this the 'new carb' hasn't found it's way on the bike yet, I did think about butchering the carb that's fitted to the bike but this 'new' one is still 'unknown', I don't know if it'll work ok......The seller said the bike it came from was running, mine's 'running' but it's far from perfect! The carb that's on the bike is still getting me around so I'm reluctant to muller it just in case I need to refit it if this 'new' one requires reconditioning. Started saving some cash so I can think about getting my training/tests sorted. I was kicing the idea around of buying a newer 125 and putting off the test until next year but for what a descent 125 will cost I can do my training/tests and have a few bob towards something bigger (been looking at 600 Bandits, Fazers & Kwak ER500's.........But that's another story) ;D. As usual my little girl was showing some keen interest; See how fecking 'grey' this GN carb has made me. ;D
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Post by dungbug on Feb 26, 2012 22:49:56 GMT
Well I spent some time today giving the GN a good clean as she was covered in a nice layer of grit due to being used in the bad weather. I pondered the quality of the spark so got a voltmeter on the coil, I was getting a reading of 4ohms, according to the book of lies Haynes it should reading anywhere between 2~5ohms so I'd say the coil is well enough. After about 2 hours of cleaning I decided to just refurbish the replacement carb, a couple of the needles weren't great so rather than fanny about fitting a carb that might be no better than what I've got I'll rebuild it properly. Just ordered a rebuild kit, new needles, jets, float pin, gaskets/O rings etc. Basically the diaphragm & the carb body will be the only parts that aren't replaced,diaphragm is new so not worried about that, will just replace the needle on it from the new kit. Once this carb is rebuilt I'll see how she goes performance wise, tank has been given a flush, fuel tap stripped & cleaned as well. I chcked the plug today & it's the same white(ish) colour that it was before so still think it's lack of fuel as the problem. The only thing that did occur was maybe the float height was wrong (?). The Haynes mentions tilting the carb at a 60 degree angle and measuring from where the float bowl gasket would sit to the bottom (lowest point) of the float. Anyone got any pointers on this, not sure sure what they mean as there's no photo or diagram to explain (I prefer pictures for these things) ;D Although no breakthrough was made with the ongoing problem she did look 100% better from having a good clean, back wheel was a pig to get clean.
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Post by dungbug on Feb 29, 2012 21:44:06 GMT
Carb kit arrived today so grabbed the replacement carb out of the shed & made a start replacing the internal gubbings. New bits to go in. Only just got this little bugger out. New float needle. A bit of 'fuel' to keep me going. New stuff fitted. New mixture screw & air pilot fitted, looking nice & clean. The removed bits. Just the slide needle to do now which I'll do at the weekend as I will be using the diaphragm from the carb that's on the bike as it's alot newer than the one in this carb. The one in this carb feels a little brittle so I'll use the newer one for the build. Quick question, is this the correct way to check the float height? (carb upside down, measure from where the gasket goes to the highest part of the float). If this is right then I need to re-adjust as it should be 21.4mm. Pleased with it so far, looking forward to getting the slide needle/diaphragm done and seeing how she runs/rides. At least I can adjust the bloody mixture now.
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Post by TerraRoot on Mar 1, 2012 9:00:30 GMT
yep thats how i measure it, but i'd advice some thing more accurate then a tape, they are +/- at least 1mm, worse when the tab at the ends gets a little wore and moves about a bit.
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Post by dungbug on Mar 1, 2012 10:57:07 GMT
yep thats how i measure it, but i'd advice some thing more accurate then a tape, they are +/- at least 1mm, worse when the tab at the ends gets a little wore and moves about a bit. I've got a steel ruler in the shed which I'll use, it was dark when I took the photo & the tape measure was to hand so used that. I'll use the steel ruler for the float height, need to bend the tang a little as it's a bit below what it should be..........Glad there's nothing glaringly wrong with what I've done so far, first attempt at rebuilding a carb.
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Post by dungbug on Mar 12, 2012 15:11:26 GMT
Right, I've had some time over the last week so I ordered the rebuild kit from Wemoto and rebuilt the carb during last week. I fitted the rebuilt carb at the weekend using the diaphragm from the old carb as it was replaced with a new item purchased from Suzuki a few months back. I fitted the new slide needle to the diaphragm that came with the rebuild kit and set the mixture screw to the factory setting as per the manual. The bike starts up ok and revs quite nicely without any hesitation (good start I thought!), took her out on the road when she'd warmed up and started working through the gears. In each gear there seems to be some hesitation though, almost like the bike is 'hunting' (?) I played around with the idle screw and mixture but can't seem to get a smooth acceleration in any gear. I rode the bike to work this morning and she struggled to reach 55mph, whereas she could sometimes hit 65mph+. The plug, cap and HT lead has been replaced along with the airfilter, I checked again for airleaks on the inlet manifold rubber and couldn't find any (inlet rubber was replaced about 6 months ago) so I'm ruling out the possibility of an airleak, dodgy airfilter or duff plug/cap/lead. When the airfilter, plug, cap & lead was changed it didn't improve the running of the bike so I don't think they were ever the cause or part of the problem. After a while of fiddling with the carb adjustments I've got it idling as well as I can and the throttle response on the stand is nice & sharp, it 'feels' like it wants to go when it's on a run but I can't decide whether the problem is fuel or spark related. The float height is correct at 21.4mm so I'm sure there's enough fuel in the bowl for it, just running out of ideas now. Could I be looking at a problem with the CDI? I checked the ignition coil and was seeing a reading of 4ohms, the manual states anything between 2~6ohms is acceptable so I don't think the coil is at fault. The problem occurs when the bike is cold & hot which doesn't really suggest a problem with the coil. Admittedly I'm no expert in setting carbs so is it possible my adjustments aren't right (?)
A mate did suggest that the slide needle at the bottom of the diaphragm could be set wrong. There's 5 grooves cut for a circlip, the diaphragm that came off had the circlip on the groove second from the top (same as the diaphragm that was fitted) so I used the same groove with the new slide needle. Could this be the reason?
Thanks in advance for any pointers/suggestions.
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Post by TerraRoot on Mar 14, 2012 21:15:44 GMT
most stock needle clip postions are right in the middle, your second from the top would lean the mix and give those symptoms.
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Post by dungbug on Mar 14, 2012 23:54:23 GMT
most stock needle clip postions are right in the middle, your second from the top would lean the mix and give those symptoms. The circlip has now been moved to the middle notch, I gave it (as best as I could get) some stick on the way home. Took the plug out & it was more white/light brown rather than white as it was before, so I reckon moving the circlip on he needle was a step in the right direction. She still not right though, it has occurred that the lost of power/speed at the top end is happening after a mile or two of riding. I'm now wondering if the coil is breaking down and interferring with the spar/giving a weak spark.
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Post by TerraRoot on Mar 15, 2012 18:05:14 GMT
well if richening the mixture worked for the midrange and you have the same problem at the top end..... a borrowed spare coil ought to ease your worries in a mile or two. also the followers could be worn, which wrecks the valve lift, which really wrecks the top end power.
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Post by dungbug on Mar 15, 2012 22:43:24 GMT
also the followers could be worn, which wrecks the valve lift, which really wrecks the top end power. I am a little worried that there may be something more sinister going on.
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